Four leader material examples arranged side by side and clearly labeled: monofilament, copolymer leader represented by No See Um Copolymer Leader, fluorocarbon, and wire.

How to Rig a Squid Trolling Lure

How to Rig a Squid Trolling Lure

Quick Answer

A squid trolling rig runs from your main line through a terminal connection — typically a swivel or snap swivel — into a monofilament, copolymer or fluorocarbon leader, through or attached to the squid lure head, and terminates at a single hook or double-hook stinger configuration positioned within the lure's skirt according to that lure's intended rigging configuration.

There is no universal hook size, leader strength, leader length or hardware specification. Every rigging decision depends on the lure's design, your target species, water conditions and what the manufacturer recommends for that specific lure. The job of this article is to explain how to make those decisions — not hand you a single setup to copy blindly.

This guide covers rigging an unrigged squid-shaped trolling lure to catch fish. It does not cover the Hookup Lures Squid Jig, which uses crowns of small barbless prongs and is designed specifically for catching squid — a fundamentally different tool. If you're unsure which type you need, the pillar article The Complete Guide to Squid Trolling Lures covers that distinction in detail.

Components of a Squid Trolling Rig

Understanding what each component does and why it is there makes every rigging decision more intuitive.

Main Line

Your main line — braid, monofilament or a braid-and-mono topshot combination — connects to the leader via a terminal connection. Main-line choice depends on your reel setup, target species, trolling method and personal preference. Braid offers high strength relative to its diameter and very low stretch, which can improve sensitivity and hookset efficiency. Monofilament provides stretch and shock absorption, which some anglers prefer to cushion the impact of strikes at trolling speed. The main line itself typically does not contact the lure directly; the leader handles that role.

Terminal Connection

Terminal connections vary by rig and angler preference. A swivel between the main line and leader can help manage line twist, particularly when lures rotate during the troll. Snap swivels or interlock snaps may allow faster leader or lure changes without retying. Some rigging systems use a direct line-to-leader connection without a swivel, relying on the leader setup to manage twist. Choose a connection approach that suits your rig, your target species and the lure being fished.

When swivels or snaps are used, match their rated strength to the expected load for your target species — undersized hardware is a common source of lost fish.

Ball-bearing swivels rotate more freely and reliably under sustained load than standard barrel swivels, which is an advantage in many trolling applications.

Leader

The leader is the length of monofilament, copolymer, fluorocarbon or wire that runs from the terminal connection to the lure. Leader length, material and strength are all conditional — more on that below.

The Squid Lure

The lure head channels and positions the leader. How the leader passes through or attaches to the lure varies by design — some lures have a center channel that the leader runs through from nose to tail; others attach at a tow point molded into the head. Understanding your specific lure's design before rigging is essential because the wrong approach can result in a lure that runs poorly or a hook that sits in the wrong position.

Hook(s)

The hook — or hooks in a double-hook configuration — is tied or crimped to the leader end and positioned according to the lure's intended rigging configuration. Hook size, style and placement all affect hookup rate and how the lure swims.

Main-Line Considerations

While main-line selection is its own topic, it directly affects how you build the leader connection. The key principle: any connection between your main line and leader must be compatible with both materials and the expected load, and must be tied or formed correctly and tested before fishing. Do not use a knot or connection system you cannot tie reliably or that you have not verified under load for the materials involved.

If you are running a braid-to-mono topshot system, the topshot-to-leader connection is still a point that needs to match your target species' demands. If you are running straight monofilament, the same principle applies at the main-line-to-leader junction.

Leader Material: Monofilament, Copolymer, Fluorocarbon and Wire

Choosing leader material is one of the most consequential rigging decisions. There is no single correct answer — it depends on your target species, water clarity, fishing conditions and lure design.

Monofilament

Monofilament is the traditional offshore trolling leader material. Its advantages are meaningful: it stretches, which can absorb shock when fish hit hard at trolling speed, and it is generally forgiving of knot-tying errors relative to fluorocarbon. It is also easier to handle in heavier tests — important when building long, stiff leaders for large lures.

Monofilament is visible in the water, which matters most in very clear blue water with leader-shy species. In most practical offshore trolling situations, monofilament visibility is not a significant problem, but it is a variable to consider.

Copolymer Leader

Copolymer is a leader material distinct from both standard monofilament and fluorocarbon. The No See Um Copolymer Leader is a tough copolymer leader material designed to provide a low-visibility presentation with the strength needed for demanding saltwater fishing. Available in a range of diameters and pound ratings, it is listed by Xmark for use in trolling, live bait rigs, inshore and offshore leaders, and applications involving toothy or hard-fighting fish — including species like king mackerel, tuna, cobia and others relevant to squid trolling contexts.

Copolymer is not fluorocarbon and not standard monofilament — it is its own category with its own handling and performance characteristics. If your application does not specifically require fluorocarbon's refractive index properties or wire's bite resistance, copolymer is another leader option worth considering alongside monofilament.

Fluorocarbon

Fluorocarbon is less visible underwater than monofilament because its refractive index is closer to water. In clear blue water with fish that have had significant pressure, or when targeting species that may inspect a lure before committing, fluorocarbon leader can be an advantage.

Fluorocarbon is denser than monofilament, which means it sinks slightly rather than floating — a minor factor in trolling applications where the leader is under tension, but worth understanding. It is also stiffer and less forgiving of poor knot technique; use appropriate knots and seat them carefully.

The TUF-LINE XD Fluorocarbon Leader – Clear is available in the Xmark catalog for anglers building or re-rigging their own leaders.

Wire Leader

Wire leaders are appropriate when targeting species with sharp teeth capable of cutting through monofilament or fluorocarbon — primarily wahoo and king mackerel in most offshore squid-trolling contexts. Wire leaders help prevent bite-offs but can reduce the natural action of lighter lures and may be more visible in the water.

Single-strand wire requires specific loop-forming techniques (the haywire twist) for reliable connections. Multi-strand wire or cable is more flexible and is connected with crimps. If you are targeting toothy species and want to use wire, learn the correct connection method for the wire type you choose — improperly formed haywire twists and poorly seated crimps are a significant source of failures.

Wire selection is highly species- and lure-specific. Follow the recommendations for your specific lure and target if available; otherwise consult regional offshore fishing resources for your fishery.

Leader Length

Leader length varies based on lure design, target species, handling requirements and rigging system. There is no universal leader length. If your lure manufacturer provides a recommendation, start there and adjust based on experience.

Swivels, Clips and Connection Hardware

Hardware failures offshore are expensive and frustrating. A few principles:

  • Match rated strength to your target. Hardware rated for inshore fishing may not be appropriate for offshore trolling for large pelagic fish. Use hardware with a rated breaking strength appropriate for the species you are targeting and the line class you are fishing.
  • Ball-bearing swivels rotate more freely and reliably under sustained load than standard barrel swivels, which is an advantage in most trolling applications.
  • Snap swivels add convenience but introduce a potential failure point if the snap opens under load. Use quality, appropriately rated snap swivels and inspect the snap's locking mechanism before every trip.
  • Crimps are used in many offshore leader systems — particularly with heavier mono and wire — because they can provide strong, reliable connections. Proper crimp size for the material diameter matters; using the wrong crimp size produces weaker connections. Follow crimp manufacturer specifications for the material you are using.
  • Inspect hardware before every trip and after every fish. Corrosion, deformation and fatigue are cumulative. Replace swivels, snaps and crimps that show any rust, deformation or rough action.

How the Leader Connects to the Lure

This is where lure design matters most, and where anglers building their own rigs need to pay close attention to their specific lure.

Center-channel lures have a channel running through the lure head from nose to tail. The leader is threaded through this channel, then the hook is tied or crimped to the leader end so that it is positioned correctly within the skirt according to the lure's design. The lure head sits on the leader between the terminal connection and the hook.

Fixed-attachment lures connect at a tow point — a molded-in eye, pin or recessed attachment point on the nose or top of the head — rather than running a leader through the body. The leader ties or clips to this point, and the hook hangs below or behind the lure head.

Skirted lure variations may have a specific collar, skirt tube or attachment system that positions the skirt relative to the hook — if so, the skirt must be properly positioned before the hook is attached to ensure correct presentation in the water.

If the rigging instructions for your specific lure are available from the manufacturer, follow them. Different designs perform as intended only when rigged as designed.

Hook Placement and Why It Matters

Hook position within the lure and skirt is one of the most consequential rigging variables — and one of the easiest to get wrong. The correct position depends on the lure's design, the manufacturer's rigging intent, hook style and lure length. What matters in every case is that the hook point and gap have adequate exposure for the hook to engage a fish, and that the hook position does not interfere with the lure's intended action.

Hook too far forward (buried in the head): The hook point is concealed by the lure body and has limited ability to engage a fish that strikes the trailing skirt. Hookup rate can drop significantly.

Hook positioned as the lure is designed to be rigged: The hook has adequate point and gap exposure and sits where the manufacturer intended, allowing the lure to swim correctly and the hook to engage fish that commit to the lure.

Hook too far back (trailing excessively past the skirt): An exposed hook hanging well behind the skirt can create drag, affect lure action, and in some configurations cause lures to spin or behave erratically.

When rigging, assemble the complete rig and physically hold the lure under tension to confirm hook position before deploying it. If manufacturer rigging guidance is available for your specific lure, use it as the reference point.

Single-Hook Rigs

A single inline hook is the simplest and most common configuration for squid trolling lures. The hook is tied or crimped to the leader end and positioned according to the lure's design so that the point is adequately exposed.

Single-hook rigs are clean, easy to manage, and suitable for most squid trolling applications. They are the standard starting point for most lure sizes and most species.

Choosing Hook Size for a Single-Hook Rig

Hook size should be proportional to the lure — a hook that is too small for the lure may produce poor hooksets; a hook too large affects lure action and may interfere with how the lure swims. Hook gap should be wide enough to engage the species' mouth effectively.

Do not pick a hook size from a generic chart. Compare your hook to the lure physically — the hook should look proportional and seat correctly according to the lure's design, with adequate gap exposure. Target species also matters: the right hook for mahi is not necessarily the right choice for billfish or wahoo.

Hook style — J-hook, circle hook or inline hook — affects hookset mechanics. J-hooks and inline hooks typically engage on a direct strike at trolling speed. Circle hooks are designed to set in the corner of the mouth as the fish turns and tension is maintained, which can reduce deep hooking. See the circle-hook section below for important regulatory context before selecting hook style for billfish.

Double-Hook and Stinger Configurations

Multi-hook arrangements — including trailing stinger hooks — are specialized rigging configurations. Whether a second hook is appropriate depends on the lure's design, the target species, applicable regulations and the manufacturer's recommendations for that specific lure. Not all squid trolling lures are designed or intended to be fished with a second hook.

If your lure or rig system is designed to accommodate a second hook, follow the manufacturer's recommended configuration rather than improvising a generic stinger setup. The position, size and connection method for any trailing hook are design-specific.

Before fishing any multi-hook arrangement, verify that it is legal for your target species and fishing location. Hook count and configuration rules vary by species, fishery and jurisdiction and can change.

Step-by-Step: Rigging an Unrigged Squid Trolling Lure

The steps below describe the general process for center-channel lures — the most common unrigged squid trolling lure design. Always follow your specific lure's manufacturer instructions if available, as rigging requirements vary.

Before you start: Gather your leader material, hook(s), terminal connection hardware and tools. Sharp, clean cuts on leader material matter — use dedicated scissors or cutters rated for the material. The Evolution Braid Scissors, Danco Ultimate Braid Scissors and Danco Lunar-I 3-Inch Serrated Braid Scissors are available from Xmark for clean cuts on braid and leader material.

  1. Cut your leader to the appropriate length. Account for the length of the lure body plus the distance needed to position the hook correctly per the lure's design, plus enough material for your terminal connections at both ends (knot or crimp at the swivel/connection end, knot or crimp at the hook end). Cut cleanly and squarely.
  2. Attach the terminal connection to the leader. Tie or crimp the swivel or connection hardware to one end of the leader using an appropriate method for your leader material and test. Seat the connection completely before continuing. If using a crimp, follow the crimp manufacturer's sizing recommendation for your leader diameter.
  3. Thread the leader through the lure. For center-channel lures, pass the hook end of the leader through the nose of the lure and out the tail. The terminal connection end remains outside the nose of the lure — the lure head will sit on the leader between the connection and the hook. Use a rigging needle if the channel is tight.
  4. Attach the hook. Tie or crimp the hook to the leader end that exits the lure's tail. Use an appropriate connection method for your leader material — connections that slip or degrade under load are a common source of failures.
  5. Seat the hook in the correct position. Hold the terminal connection end and apply gentle tension. Adjust the leader until the hook is positioned as the lure is designed to be rigged — with adequate hook-point exposure and without interfering with the lure's action. Confirm this matches the manufacturer's rigging intent if instructions are available.
  6. Verify the complete rig. Confirm that: the terminal connection seats flush against or properly at the lure nose; the hook is correctly positioned per the lure's design; there are no twists in the leader inside the lure; the skirt lies naturally around the hook and leader.
  7. If using a multi-hook configuration: Follow the lure or rig manufacturer's recommended arrangement for hook count, position and connection method. Verify that the configuration is legal for your target species and fishing location before deploying.

Inspecting a Factory-Rigged or Pre-Rigged Lure

A pre-rigged lure like the Hookup Lures Flyer 4.5 Rigged & Ready or Hookup Lures Crasher 4.5 Rigged & Ready arrives ready to fish — but you should not deploy it without a quick inspection.

Check hook condition. Run a fingernail across each hook point. A sharp hook catches readily; a dull or corroded hook may not set reliably. Look for rust, corrosion or bent points. Replace hooks that show damage or significant dulling.

Check the leader. Run your thumb and forefinger along the full length of the leader, feeling for nicks, abrasion, kinks or rough spots. A compromised leader can fail under load. If you find damage, re-rig with fresh leader material.

Check hook position. Confirm that the hook is positioned as the lure is designed to be rigged — with adequate point exposure and correct placement within the skirt — rather than buried in the head or trailing excessively behind the lure.

Check the terminal hardware. Any swivel should rotate freely with light finger pressure. Inspect snaps for proper locking. Any corrosion, rough action or deformation is a reason to replace the hardware.

Check the skirt. Tears, stiff sections or missing tentacles change how the lure moves in the water. Significant skirt damage changes lure presentation enough to warrant replacement or skirt repair.

Testing Lure Action Beside the Boat

This is one of the most important habits in squid trolling — and one of the most skipped. See the speed discussion in Best Trolling Speed for Squid Lures for how lure behavior and boat speed interact.

After attaching a lure to your rod or outrigger line, run it close enough to the boat that its action can be clearly observed at the intended trolling speed, before deploying it to its fishing position. Watch it long enough to confirm the action is consistent and correct.

What you want to see: The lure swims, skips or dives with consistent, repeatable action. The skirt streams cleanly behind the head. The lure does not rotate continuously.

What may indicate a problem:

  • Spinning or corkscrew rotation: Possible causes include hook drag from incorrect position, a twisted leader inside the lure, a failing swivel, or a speed outside the lure's intended range. Reduce speed first. If spinning continues, check hook position, verify the leader is not twisted inside the lure, and check swivel function.
  • Rolling from side to side: May indicate the lure is running at the edge of its speed range, or a hook placement or leader routing issue. Adjust speed incrementally and observe.
  • Laying on its side or tracking erratically: Possible causes include leader routing problems, hook position, lure design factors or sea state. Inspect rigging and check that the lure is assembled as intended.
  • Skipping excessively out of the water: Speed, spread position, sea state and lure design can all contribute. Reducing speed or adjusting position in the spread are the common first adjustments.

Never deploy a lure to full fishing distance without first confirming it is running correctly at boatside. A poorly running lure trolled for an extended period produces no useful fishing while causing line twist and wearing hardware unnecessarily.

Inspecting Leader, Hooks and Hardware After Strikes and Fish

After every fish and after any significant snag or contact with structure, inspect the complete rig before deploying again. A leader that survived one fish may be compromised enough to fail on the next.

Leader inspection: Run the full leader through your fingers. Nicks and abrasion from a fish's body, bill or teeth create stress concentrations that can fail under load. If you feel anything rough or see any visible damage, cut back past the damage and retie — or replace the leader entirely.

Hook inspection: Check sharpness on every point. A fish's mouth, scales and gill plates can dull hooks. Check for bending, straightening or corrosion. Replace any hook that is not sharp and straight.

Swivel and hardware inspection: Confirm the swivel still rotates freely. Inspect snaps for proper closure. Check crimps for any movement or cracking. Replace any hardware that shows deformation, corrosion or rough action.

Skirt inspection: Verify the skirt has not torn significantly or become tangled around the hook or leader during the fight.

This inspection takes little time and is an effective way to catch equipment issues before they cost you a fish.

Saltwater Lure and Tackle Care

Saltwater rigging components corrode faster than anglers often expect. A basic post-trip routine extends equipment life significantly:

  • Rinse everything in fresh water. Lures, leaders, swivels, snaps, hooks — all of it. Pay particular attention to swivel internals and snap locking mechanisms where salt accumulates.
  • Dry before storage. Wet tackle in a closed bag or box corrodes faster than tackle that is rinsed and dried.
  • Store leaders properly. Fluorocarbon leader coiled tightly in a hot environment can develop memory and kink, which weakens it and affects leader behavior in the water. Store leader material loosely and away from direct heat.
  • Replace hooks on a schedule. Hooks that look fine may have developed corrosion below visibility. Anglers who fish frequently in saltwater often replace hooks at regular intervals rather than waiting for visible failure.
  • Inspect pre-rigged lures in storage. A lure stored rigged can develop leader memory, hook corrosion and skirt deterioration over time. Check stored rigged lures before each trip, not just when they come off the rod.

For clean cuts when trimming leaders and retying after trips, the Danco Ultimate Braid Scissors and Evolution 4-Inch Full-Grip Braid Scissors are available in the Xmark catalog.

Common Rigging Mistakes

For a full breakdown of rigging and trolling mistakes, see Squid Trolling Mistakes: Common Problems and How to Fix Them. The rigging-specific ones:

Using a Hook That Is Not Proportional to the Lure

A hook that is too small may reduce hookup rate. A hook too large affects lure action and can cause spinning. Compare hook to lure physically — the hook should look proportional and seat correctly according to the lure's design, with adequate gap exposure.

Not Seating Connections Fully Before Fishing

A partially seated knot or poorly set crimp can slip under load. Moisten knots before cinching and pull them firmly to full seating before trimming the tag end. Follow crimp manufacturer specifications for crimp size and setting method.

Re-Using Leaders Without Inspection

A leader that survived a fish may be compromised in ways that are not visible at a glance. Run every leader through your fingers before deployment. Replace at any sign of damage.

Getting Hook Position Wrong

If the hook is buried in the lure head or trailing too far behind the skirt — or not positioned as the lure is designed to be rigged — hookup rate and lure action can both suffer. Always verify final hook position under tension and against the manufacturer's guidance before deploying.

Skipping the Boatside Action Check

Deploying a lure without verifying its action at boatside is the fastest way to waste trolling time on a rig that was not running correctly from the start.

Using Hardware Not Rated for the Application

Hardware used for offshore trolling should be rated for the expected load. Match hardware strength ratings to the fishing application.

Ignoring the Manufacturer's Rigging Instructions

Different lures are built differently. A rigging approach that works perfectly on one lure model may produce a spinning, poorly tracking or poorly hooked rig on another. If instructions are available, use them as a starting point.

Choosing Between Rigging Your Own and Buying Pre-Rigged

If you are new to offshore trolling, pre-rigged lures remove most of the rigging decisions while you learn the rest of the system — spread management, speed adjustment, distance positioning. The Hookup Lures Flyer 4.5 Rigged & Ready and Hookup Lures Crasher 4.5 Rigged & Ready are examples of ready-to-fish options in the Xmark catalog.

As you develop experience and form opinions about hook size, leader material and leader length for your specific fishery and target species, transitioning to rigging unrigged lures — like the Hookup Lures Squidy 4.5, Hookup Lures Flyer 4.5, Hookup Lures Slammer 4.5, Hookup Lures Slammer 6.5, Hookup Lures Flyer 6.5 or Hookup Lures Crasher 6.5 — gives you full control over every variable.

The comparison between the two approaches is covered in detail in Rigged vs Unrigged Squid Trolling Lures.

If you want to start with a curated assortment that gives you multiple lures to work with, the Xmark Offshore Trolling Starter Kit – 4 Lures and Xmark Squidy Trolling Color Kit – 6 Lures are available as starting spreads to rotate from as you learn.

Shop the Gear

Everything discussed in this guide — lures, leaders, hooks, terminal hardware and tools — is available through Xmark. The groupings below follow the rigging workflow from lure selection through to dockside maintenance.

Squid Trolling Lures

Unrigged — for anglers who want to choose their own leader, hook and hardware:

Pre-rigged — for anglers who prefer fewer setup decisions:

Leader & Rigging

Leader material:

  • No See Um Copolymer Leader — tough copolymer leader available in a range of pound ratings; a low-visibility saltwater leader option for trolling and offshore applications where fluorocarbon is not specifically required
  • TUF-LINE XD Fluorocarbon Leader – Clear — fluorocarbon leader for applications where low underwater visibility is a priority, such as clear blue water or leader-shy species

Hooks: Choose hook style and size based on the specific lure's design, manufacturer rigging guidance, target species and applicable regulations. Xmark carries saltwater hooks, but this guide does not prescribe one universal hook or hook size for every squid trolling lure.

Terminal hardware:

Rigging Tools

Cutting and trimming leader material cleanly matters for connection strength and how finished rigs handle on the water.

Ready-Made Trolling Options

For anglers who prefer a curated lure assortment over building a spread from individual pieces:

Frequently Asked Questions

What knot should I use for squid trolling lure leaders?

There is no single correct knot — the right choice depends on your leader material (monofilament vs. copolymer vs. fluorocarbon), line test and connection type (hook, swivel, crimp). Any line-to-leader connection must be compatible with the materials and expected load, and should be tied correctly and tested before fishing. If you are unsure, practice the connection until you can tie it consistently and have verified it holds before using it offshore.

How long should my leader be?

Leader length varies by lure design, target species, handling requirements and rigging system. There is no universal answer. If your lure manufacturer provides a recommendation, start there and adjust based on experience on the water.

Can I use the same leader setup for all squid trolling lures?

Not necessarily. Different lure sizes, designs and target species may require different leader strengths, materials and lengths. A leader system that works well for mahi on a small lure may be too light for wahoo on a larger lure, or may not suit the tow point design of a different lure model. Treat each lure as potentially requiring its own rigging evaluation.

How do I know what hook size to use?

Hook size should be proportional to the lure and appropriate for the target species' mouth. There is no published universal chart that applies to all squid trolling lures. Compare your hook to the lure physically — it should seat naturally according to the lure's design, with adequate gap exposure. If the manufacturer provides a hook recommendation for the specific lure, start there.

My lure keeps spinning. What is wrong?

Spinning is usually caused by one or more of these: speed outside the lure's intended range; twisted leader inside the lure; hook creating drag from incorrect position or size; or a failing swivel that is no longer rotating freely. Check speed first. Then inspect the leader for twist, the hook position, and the swivel for free rotation. See Best Trolling Speed for Squid Lures for a full treatment of speed-related lure behavior issues.

Do I need a wire leader for mahi or tuna?

Not typically. Wire leaders are primarily used for toothy species — wahoo and king mackerel in most offshore squid-trolling contexts — where monofilament or fluorocarbon is vulnerable to bite-offs. Mahi and tuna do not have the same cutting dentition, so wire is not normally required. That said, always verify the current regulations and any gear restrictions for your specific fishery.

Should I use circle hooks for squid trolling lures?

Hook rules vary significantly by fishery, bait type, tournament status and jurisdiction, so there is no single answer. As one example, current Atlantic Highly Migratory Species (HMS) tournament rules require non-offset circle hooks when fishing for billfish with natural bait or natural-and-artificial bait combinations — but the rules differ for purely artificial lures. Requirements in other fisheries or non-tournament contexts may differ further. Verify current NOAA Fisheries rules and any applicable state requirements for your species and location before making hook-style decisions. Regulations change, and this article cannot substitute for checking current guidance directly.

What is the difference between rigging this lure and using a squid jig?

A squid-shaped trolling lure is rigged with a conventional single or double fish hook and designed to catch fish when trolled. A squid jig — like the Hookup Lures Squid Jig — uses crowns of small barbless prongs and is designed specifically for catching squid. They are completely different tools with different rigging, different techniques and different targets. See the full distinction in The Complete Guide to Squid Trolling Lures.

What to Read Next

Once your lure is rigged and running correctly, the next decisions are where to position it in the spread and how fast to troll it. How Far Behind the Boat Should You Troll Squid Lures? covers wake zones and distance selection. Best Trolling Speed for Squid Lures covers speed selection and lure behavior. How to Build a Squid Trolling Spread covers how to combine multiple rigged lures into a working spread. And Best Squid Trolling Lure Colors and When to Use Them covers color selection by conditions so you can make the most of every position in that spread.

Browse the Xmark Outdoors offshore trolling selection for Hookup Lures squid-style trolling lures, rigging components and tools. Verify current regulations for your target species and location before heading offshore.

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